Too Brainy to be a Beauty?

So has science unknowing provided an argument for the cliché of separating beauty and brains?

Richard Wrangham, a biological anthropologist at Harvard University, proposes that we have evolved to be the dominant specie by virtue of our bigger brain. His book, Catching Fire, http://www.powells.com/biblio/9780465013623 claims that this was the direct result of lessening the energy needs of our digestive system.

So we grew to be skillful masters of our destiny and our culture has evolved from the dominance of “might” to that of “bright”. (some corny humour before we talk about aging). This change has brought women growing equality and the right to work ourselves to poor health. (some self deprecating humour)

As a happy workaholic, I find the demands of beauty a nuisance. I am not talking about the superficial preoccupation with make up, hair (styling/colouring) and nails (manicures/pedicures). But the dominance of my brain along with a great relationship with my cute Sony Viao has curbed my time and efforts at the foundations of beauty like proper diet (no- not everyone thrives on broccoli and salmon and some people can be healthy with coffee and dairy), relaxation (even your brain needs a break), adequate sleep and exercise, spiritual practice (I am referring to feeling connected not joining a cult) and facial treatments ( yes - to have beautiful skin you need to take care of it regularly).

My workaholism, mainly driven by my desire to find skin solutions that are successful for both her staff and clients, is a prime example of knowledge not being enough. Have our brains become too powerful?

As a human that needs more evolving, my improved lifestyle is spurred by my fear of aging too quickly. And my ability to accept my aging body is slower than the signs of aging cropping up. So my short sighted vision now requires I cheat Mother Nature with help from some of the safe and proven technologies in skin rejuvenation.

The principle goal of rejuvenating skin is to stimulate or increase collagen production in the Dermis layer of your skin. This will increase your skin cells’ ability to retain moisture. The difference in the appearance between the skin of a 16 year old and that of a 60 year old is the amount of moisture in her skin cells not the number of skin cells. Fine wrinkles and dryness appear when skin cells shrink due to the low moisture content of the new skin cell and the slower turnover rate of the cell’s life-cycle. The cycle of a 20 year old skin is 28 days while that of a 45 year old depending on her lifestyle can be 40 days or more.

The second goal is to rejuvenating elastin in the Dermis. As elastin degenerates skin loses tone and deep wrinkles form. Young skin has more and healthier elastin fibres than aged skin. Premature aging can occur with over exposure to the elements (pollution, sun, wind) and poor protection from them (inadequate moisturizer and sun screen).

Therefore the successful skin rejuvenation technologies target the dermis to rejuvenate collagen and elastin fibres.

While results are the goal, for long term skin beauty, safety is the first consideration. Those of us in the market for this technology have experienced the folly of exclusive short term gain. After those two considerations, our personal preferences, budgets and time constraint can have a strong say in the matter.

4 safe technologies that I have found to give you good long term results are
• Light Emitting Diode (LED)
• Micro Current Facial (MCF)
• MicroDermabrasion
• Intense Pulse Light (IPL)

All 4 will cost you the same in the long run but the gentler treatments will take more of your time and spread your payments over a longer period of time . For example; while IPL treatments are the most expense, you will need only 3 to 6 treatments a year to get good results while for the same results with MCF requires 2 treatments a week for 6-10 weeks then monthly treatments to maintain results. Both will end up costing about $2000. - $3,000.00 depending on your needs.

Personal preference can determine choice as LED treatments can be therapeutic for the mind as well as rejuvenating for the skin. The healing red light is an enjoyable experience for clients while MicroDermabrasion can be jarring to their skin and psyche.

If you are in the market for safe preventative treatments you have the luxury of choice but if you have been abusive (over sun exposure) or negligent (I just don’t have time to moisturize) you may need to do a combination of the 4 technologies to get the results you want.

So what are these 4 treatment technologies?

LED treatments comprise of putting the skin under the healing coloured lights that are chosen to penetrate skin to the dermis layer to bolster healthy collagen production. While clients see improvement in their skin after one treatment it is far from dramatic or satisfying enough. This gentle therapy needs repetition to successfully give skin a long-term rejuvenated appearance. Therefore it is recommended that candidates do an initial course of treatments weekly for 7-10 weeks. For better results 2 treatments a week are recommended. After the initial treatment course, monthly treatments along with facials are needed to maintain results.

This treatment is beneficial and safe for all skin types. This technology was first used by NASA for healing then the technology was transfer to the market to treat skin cancer. As a spa treatment, LED light can rejuvenate skin cells using the red spectrum. To treat mature skin that is sensitive, a green light can be used as well. The blue spectrum is used to reduce skin’s tendency to blemish.

The second choice, MCF improves muscle tone and decreases wrinkles. Electrical current stimulates collagen production and improves skin tone to improve its appearance. Our MCF includes a second phase of applying HF current to stimulate muscles fibres and increase skin healing abilities.

The initial course of treatment is similar to LED. While once a week for 10 weeks is adequate; the best results for those of us over 50 can be attain with twice a week treatments for 10 weeks. Maintenance protocol is monthly treatments but celebrities, who are the shining examples for this technology have weekly treatments for maintenance. Those of us who are very meticulous about their appearance will want treatments at least twice a month.

It is not recommended for those who have very sensitive skin or Rosacea.

MicroDermabrasion rejuvenates aged skin by stimulating cell turnover, collagen production and minimizing facial lines. The treatment removes the top layers of the Epidermis causing the dermis to speed up cell turnover. We use the safer medium of sea salt instead of corundum -- which is a more attractive name than aluminum. While sea salt is safer, it gives better results too. I know what you are thinking – I am with you on this one. So why is anyone bothering with using aluminum as an anti-aging treatment?

Sea salt is purifying to the skin and increases its ability to retain moisture. It is less expensive for the client as it requires fewer treatments to attain the same results. Great results can be achieved with as little as 3 treatments; 2 weeks apart. Older skin should expect to do the initial course in 6 – 10 treatments. Monthly treatments are recommended. MicroDermabrasion is safe and beneficial for all skin types.

IPL is the strongest technology giving the quickest results so best for those of us who want the biggest changes yesterday. Youthful appearance can be maintained Anti-aging results with as little as 3 treatments annually. Those us, who have let our skins age more before starting, will need more treatments to jump-start our dermis in giving us younger looking skin.

IPL treatments rejuvenate our skin by emitting a high intense light into the dermis to stimulates and improve collagen production. This produces smoother, tighter skin with a decrease in visible pore size. IPL is an evolution of laser therapy to offer clients less painful and shorter treatments.

Treatment time, quality and comfort vary with the different makes of IPL machines. The spa’s investment in research and in finance does pay off for the client as end results will vary as well.

IPL dramatically improves photo-aged skin (prematurely aged appearance from sun exposure and poor lifestyle) while naturally aged skin will receive more subtle results. IPL skin rejuvenation is best for lighter skin tones. This treatment is not recommended for higher than Fitzpatrick type 4 (the scale is from 1-6) with most IPL machines.

Explore your options with your trusted esthetician. At Pure + simple, you can make a complimentary appointment with any esthetician (I work Sundays in Toronto and Saturday in Oakville) or me. We all start with your vision of how you want you skin to look and then take in consideration your time commitment and budget. Then we design a suitable plan of treatments and lifestyle to get you there. We monitor progress and alter treatment and advice as your skin dictates.

Yes, if you are serious about maintaining a youthful appearance you need to contribute with the more difficult undertaking of lifestyle as a healthy foundation to the above treatments. You will find them is my past blogs and they are individualized with your esthetician during your consultation as we help you focus on the one are most important in rejuvenating your skin and your health.

Please let me know if you have any questions. If you cannot leave your comments here email me at jean@pureandsimple.ca